Spinnerbait Heads and Arms
With style A, B, C, D, F, H, N, R, T, and
traditional heads versus hidden heads, I often get asked which
head to use when. Truth be known, these are all excellent head
styles. They really are a collection of some of the most
productive and most popular head shapes in the spinnerbait
industry since it's inception. Some like styles A, B, C and N are
venerable classic mainstays that have always caught and always
will. Others like styles D, F, H, R and T are the very latest,
greatest styles. You can fish with confidence when you use any of
these head styles. Please enjoy learning more about them all
Style A Spinnerbait
A Spinnerbait. You'll see this same head shape
sold under several different brand names. It is a highly popular
style that several tackle companies incorporate into their
product lines. It has been around for many years. What makes it
so successful for so long are its super thin, flat sides
streamlined to slice deeply into the water. This head shape works
against the uplift generated by the blades, so it stays deeper
than regular spinnerbaits throughout the retrieve. If you want to
get deep in the water, especially in a tidal river or current,
this head is designed to do that.
Best of all, no matter where or how you use it, this head
shape presents an attractive deep-bodied baitfish profile.
There are no hard and fast rules for spinnerbaits but I favor
this head shape with deeper-cupped blades and with faster-moving,
deeper-sinking versions of Willows or Indianas, either: 1) double
Willows, 2) double Indianas, 3) front Indiana back Willow or 4)
front Willow back Indiana blade pairs.
oz Style A
oz Style A
oz Style A
Style B Spinnerbait
B Spinnerbait. One of the most perfect, popular
and productive spinnerbait heads today. Many tackle companies
across the country incorporate this shape straight into their
product line exactly as is. Some of the larger or more
brand-conscious companies will request the manufacturer to make
slight variations to make it appear as their own unique brand
The two main features that help make the Style B so successful
are: 1) a thin dorsal type fin ridge runs on top of the head to
add stability and balance so it runs true at any retrieve speed,
and 2) a wide potbelly adds ballast to help prevent the
spinnerbait from rolling on its side and reduces hang-ups. The
protruding belly and the lure's rounded chin also make it deflect
erratically when it hits rocks or wood, often triggering strikes
in the process.
The Style B works swell with most any and all blade
Style C Spinnerbait
C Spinnerbait. A popular style worldwide due to
its stability in moving water, plus the Style C it is often used
for deep slow-rolling. It's streamlined shape is also beneficial
coming through weeds.
This legendary head is the darling of deep structure anglers.
This head style helped Woo Daves win the 2002 Bassmaster Classic
slow-rolling it in Chicago. When others are catching bass with
deep-diving crankbaits or heavy Carolina rigs, that's when this
style spinnerbait is at its very best. It is designed for ledges,
channel edges and deep points. A favorite of river fishermen, it
cuts fast water currents for river bass. The spear head cuts deep
while the swollen belly adds stability.
C Spinnerbait Head. This shape head is one of
the most popular worldwide, and it is a mainstay of experienced
anglers, including many of the world's top pros. The Style C head
shape can be depended upon to do three things very well:
- It excels for fishing deepwater, channels, ledges, humps,
slow-rolling or whatever deep duties you require, this
spinnerbait is a deepwater staple.
- It's a stable and streamlined shape for fishing current or
- It is often used for grinding through thick grass, keeping
the nose arm wire relatively straight in line with the
oz Style C
oz Style C
oz Style C
Style D Spinnerbait
D Spinnerbait. This style spinnerbait head has
a thinner diameter on top. The sides angle outward for slightly
wider bottom, plus a bulge of weight under the chin makes this
head a very stable and attractive true runner. A unique feature
of the Style D is larger "doll eyes" than most other
spinnerbait head shapes.
oz Style D
Style F Spinnerbait
F Spinnerbait. Many anglers recognize that jigs
come in different head shapes for different purposes. Some jig
head shapes are better in weeds, rocks or wood. Anglers don't
always realize the same concepts equally apply to spinnerbait
heads. After all, a spinnerbait is just a punk rock version of a
jig with its nose pierced by a wire and an earring dangling over
its head. The Style F is for fishing dingy water, knocking
against wood, bashing into stumps, bouncing off rocks better than
some other spinnerbait head shapes. May be hard to see in the
photo, but the face and belly is a bit boxy to deflect off hard
stuff like rocks, stumps and limbs better than a more streamlined
shape. These work well in every situation but excel most of all
for bumping through stumps, limbs, logs and rocks better than
standard spinnerbaits. The Style F is for getting into the wood
and bumping limbs for the big ones!
3/8 oz Style F
Style H Spinnerbait
Light Wire Diameter. Style H have an .032
diameter wire arm, which is about as light as wires reasonably
run on bass spinnerbaits. True, there are a few with wires of
.030 or even .028 but they're rare, get the dickens twisted out
of them and snap relatively quickly from metal vibration fatigue.
So .032 is about as light a wire as I feel one can reasonably
use while still having some nominal level of fish-ability, to
land fish played carefully with a forgiving rod, to somewhat hold
up against twistage, and resist quick metal vibration fatigue.
Reason some anglers may want such a light .032 wire (despite
the inherent drawbacks above) is their belief in and confidence
that thinner diameter wire vibrates more and may at times attract
more strikes than thicker wires that vibrate less. So the .032
wire (other things being equal) vibrates more than the most
popular middle-of-the-road .035 or the heavy duty .040 wire arms
most commonly used on bass spinnerbaits.
Wire Arm. What helps out a lot especially with such
light .032 diameter wire is that the Style H's have Super Wire.
So it is up to 30% stronger, gets bent less and vibrates up to
50% more than ordinary wire in lab tests. In actual fishing, I
feel that 30% extra lab test strength equates to many times more
bend-resistance on the water. So really, Super Wire is the way to
go with light wire arms. You get a more durable, more fish-able
bait, and it vibrates more, which is the reason some anglers opt
for a light wire in the first place.
oz Style H Hidden Heads. Much of the mass or
weight of the head is hidden beneath the skirt. However, I am a
big advocate of showing off that hidden element. The new style EZ
Skirts are a great dressing with a sparse peek-a-boo appearance
that lets the hidden weight show through beneath the skirt . As
you may be able to see in some of the dressed photos, the
billowy, flared nature of the EZ Skirt lets the attraction of the
hidden weight show throw the skirt, adding an element of allure
that's not possible except by showing off a hidden head with an
So we're not trying to hide the hidden weight mass here, but
using it to offer intriguing contrast and an additional dimension
of appearance beneath the EZ Skirt.
oz Style H Hidden Heads. The heavier 3/4 oz
weight is especially suited for duty as a slow deep runner or as
a fast subsurface burner type spinnerbait. Has the same .032
super wire arm. Used "normally" on a moderate retrieve,
it will tend to seek its working level a little deeper than
standard type 1/2 or 3/8 oz spinnerbaits. So you can think of it
somewhat like a deep-diving crankbait model (compared to medium
and shallow-diving cranks), except its a spinnerbait.
Much of the weight mass is hidden under the skirt. That gives
the appearance of a regular 1/4 oz spinnerbait, even though the
Style H actually weighs 3/8, 1/2 or 3/4 oz, and the nose arm of
the wire is shorter on the Style H, just like a standard 1/4 oz
Style N Spinnerbait
N Head. What can you say about the Style N?
It's simply one of the best spinnerbait styles. It's made with a
compact wire arm that compresses all the components - blades,
skirt, head, hook - into a smaller package. It's pure dynamite!
In the photo below, you can see the standard Style B on right.
Style B is one of the most popular spinnerbait shapes in the
world. The photo shows the standard arm length and most common
arm length used on the 1/2 oz Style B. Most standard spinnerbaits
of all kinds have the same size frame, blades, nose, etc. In
comparison, you can see the Style N on left has a smaller bullet
nose, smaller nose arm, smaller blade arm and overall, the Style
N is a more compact spinnerbait package.
N Spinnerbait. A compact type of bullet nose
spinnerbait that is particularly good for coming through grass.
Style N has a slightly shorter, more compact wire frame than
usual, plus a slightly shorter shank spinnerbait hook than you
see nowadays. It's concept is to pack all its punch into a
slightly smaller package than usual. Think of this style as a
"super concentrated formula" for a spinnerbait. These
work well in every situation but excel most of all for snaking
Style R Spinnerbait
R Hidden Head Spinnerbaits. Who knows how long
hidden head spinnerbaits have been around? I reckon the first one
I saw in modern times was about ten years back, made by a
California company. I say "in modern times" since
actually, the "original" spinnerbait, produced by a Mr.
Jesse Shannon in the early 1900's was indeed a hidden head
spinnerbait, with most of the bait's weight mass hidden under a
big hank of bucktail crudely lashed over the hidden weight of
that very first spinnerbait's head. So like the sayings go,
"There's nothing ever truly new," or "What's old
is new again" when it comes to hidden head spinnerbaits like
the Style R shown here.
The Style R was made by one of the industry's leading lure
designers. He has designed several of the first and still most
popular hidden heads on the market - and really there aren't that
many hidden heads on the market yet. Not only is he the father,
shall we say, of his own hidden heads, but his originals have
served as the examples for several other hidden heads on the
market. So, in a sense, he's the grandfather of a couple other
designs he knows that may have been loosely based on his original
I once asked him the origins of the modern hidden heads. He
felt Japan was the origin, and that's where he first got his
ideas. In his fishing journeys to Japan, he found hidden heads to
be much more popular there than in North America. Reason he felt
was the requirement to fish downsized baits in Japan. It's the
same reason that finesse applications like dropshot evolved in
Japan first. Since much of the head mass is hidden, a 3/8, 1/2 or
3/4 oz spinnerbait can present the smaller profile of a 1/4 oz
size, including compact wire frames and smaller blades that fit a
1/4 oz profile.
So the need to downsize to present a smaller bait, to fish
finesse for heavily-pressured bass in Japan - that may be why and
where the modern hidden heads evolved first. It seems some of the
first in the USA, they appeared early on (about ten years ago) in
southern California. This makes sense since it is the same route
that dropshot and many other tactics and lures have taken from
Japan into the USA, starting in southern California where many of
the same Japanese finesse tactics also work swell for anglers in
heavily-pressured California waters.
3/8 Swimming Jig. Middle: 3/8 Style R. Bottom: 1/2 Style R.
The Style R runs true and is extremely stable. The weight
allocation is balanced to let you burn it rapidly if you want. Or
rip or jerk it like a jerkbait, and it still maintains its
equilibrium and upright posture. ideal on a dead fall or on
a super slow to moderate retrieve. This is one of Bassdozer's
best spinnerbait styles.
Most of the weight is hidden beneath the skirt, where there is
also a trailer keeper cone collar to hold soft plastic trailers
securely. Yes, there are days that spinnerbaits with trailers
will get many more bites than without trailers - but most other
spinnerbaits do not have a trailer keeper collar. This one does.
The full cone provides 360 degrees of gripping power.
look under the chin. Top: 3/8 swimming jig. Center: 3/8 Style R.
Bottom: 1/2 Style R.
The bright chartreuse Style R hidden head presents a solid
baitfish-shaped strike target that's only half-hidden beneath the
billowy see-through skirt.
Style T Spinnerbait
T Spinnerbait. The Style T is a heavy duty
power fishing spinnerbait. Fish it hard. Fish it with power. It
is incredibly productive.
Power Anglers of the World Rejoice! Both the
Style T jig and the Style T spinnerbait were built together to be
power-fished together. The Style T head shape is designed from a
flipping jig head, so the Style T is better than most
spinnerbaits for coming through weeds and brushy cover like a
weedless flipping jig.
- Style T Jig. The Style T
jig flips into holes in grass and gets in and out of tight cover
very well. But it also swims as good as any "swimming"
jig. That was the main objective with the Style T jig - to have a
heavy duty flipping jig that also swims as good as it flips. Not
one or the other, but both. And that's what this jig does best of
all - both flipping and swimming - especially in grass and thick
- Style T Spinnerbait. But
that's not all! This Style T spinnerbait is the boon companion to
the Style T flipping/swimming jig. This spinnerbait and jig
are two peas in a pod, and the perfect pair for power anglers.
When you are power fishing down a bank, you can use one rod to
throw the Style T spinnerbait to prospect open water quickly for
fish roaming beyond the outer grass lines, holding near adjacent
drop-offs, and to sample open water areas in between patches of
thick cover, as you use the electric motor to parley from one
section of cover to the next. Keep in mind, the very corners of
cover where the cover peters out and transitions into open water,
these corners often have fish (good fish) watching these open
corners from a short distance nearby, waiting for bait moving in
and out of the area, and a spinnerbait can often be more
productive than a jig in these corner transition areas.
So use the Style T spinnerbait to cover the relatively open
water areas, and use the Style T jig to flip, pitch and swim the
jig dead center in the grass and dropped into tight spots on a
jig rod. These two are the same h-ea-v-y d-u-t-y power fishing
lure built as both a jig and a spinnerbait. Please enjoy!
This 1/2 oz Style T spinnerbait (center) is fashioned from a
flipping/swimming jig head (top). This spinnerbait without the
brushguard, is still quite snagless since the wire arm works much
like the brushguard on a jig anyway. Like the jig that it's made
from, this spinnerbait simply comes through heavy vegetation and
brush better than many other jig or spinnerbait head shapes.
That's what is the best feature of the 1/2 ox Style T spinnerbait
model - working it through grass and brush like the flipping jig
it is made from.
Also, note the high angle of the nose arm. This nose arm angle
means it is pre-tuned to run horizontally. Depending on what
blades are put on, it will need little or no wire tuning to run
properly. This is a little tip (pre-tuned running posture) I
picked up from the titanium arm spinnerbaits. Since a titanium
arm cannot be bent, titanium must be "pre-tuned" to the
correct running angle right out of the package. However, most all
standard stainless wire arm spinnerbaits are not pre-tuned to
proper running posture. The one you see here, the 1/2 oz Style T
is pre-tuned to run right out of the package.
It has all the good properties of the swimming/flipping jig
it's made from, now in a spinnerbait for heavy vegetation and
oz Style T
oz Style T
Triple Cone Cut Keeper Collar. Make no mistake,
there are days that spinnerbaits with soft plastic trailers will
get many more bites with than without trailers. Problem on most
other spinnerbaits (and many jigs) is that they have no way to
securely add a trailer bait. The Style T has a way. There is a
triple cone trailer keeper collar to hold soft plastic trailers
securely. A trailer may make the difference between a great day
of solid hook-ups versus a vexing lot of half-hearted short
Options. Make no mistake, there are days that
spinnerbaits with trailers will get many more bites with than
without trailers. Problem on most other spinnerbaits (and many
jigs) is that they have no way to secure a trailer bait.
The Style T does. You will appreciate that. on the Style T, there
is a double cone trailer keeper collar to hold soft plastic
trailers securely. A trailer may make the difference between a
great day of solid hook-ups versus a vexing lot lot of
Just like jigs, you can add a pork frog trailer, a plastic
pork chunk or soft plastic trailers to these spinnerbaits. Also
like jigs, the skirt bands have two "mouse ears" you
may easily plug or unplug polycarbonate rattles. Also, you can
just add a wavy-arm rattle strap on the hook bend, which is even
easier to get on or off the spinnerbait. Rattles and/or rattle
straps not included. Rattles and rattle straps sold separately.
3/4 oz Style T Hidden Head Spinnerbait. The
Style T hidden head version is 3/4 ounce. It sports a 5/0 heavy
hook. Fish it hard. Fish it with power.
Some of the head is distributed behind the skirt. In earlier
hidden head designs, this was thought of as a good way to make
the overall profile appear smaller - a smaller head size with the
bulk of its weight hidden beneath the skirt to make the head
appear smaller. In the Style T however, the body behind the skirt
is for a different reason. It is meant to be seen - not hidden.
It adds more body dimension, more shape, almost like building a
small crankbait body contained within a spinnerbait - like a ship
in a bottle. The skirt flowing around it is a separate fish
attraction. The Style T hidden head is its own lure concept built
beneath the skirt. In the Style T, the hidden head is used not to
hide weight and reduce the profile, but to add an additional
crankbait body type dimension beneath the skirt. This Style T
body concept is not meant to be hidden. It's to be seen by and to
trigger fish to strike at the inner body concept.
There is also a double cone trailer keeper collar to hold soft
plastic trailers securely. Make no mistake, there are days that
spinnerbaits with trailers will get many more bites than without
trailers - but most other spinnerbaits do not have a trailer
keeper collar. The Style T does. Each full cone provides 360
degrees of gripping power - times two - or 720 degrees of grip.
The 3/4 oz Style T Hidden Head is one of my own personal
favorite and most productive spinnerbaits. This spinnerbait is
h-e-a-v-y d-u-t-y. There aren't many hidden head spinnerbaits on
the market to begin with, and certainly not heavy power fishing
ones like this. I think one of the keys why it works so swell is
that it stays consistently deeper. It really likes to stay about
eight feet down even if you don't do anything to intentionally
get it deeper. Of course, if you give it time to sink and work it
in a slow-rolling fashion, it can get much deeper. But even on
its own without doing anything special, the depth which this
spinnerbait seeks is deeper than normal.
I often use such a heavier/deeper spinnerbait while having a
lighter spinnerbait on a spinning rod on the deck, and I'll often
alternate between the two in order to maximize the number of fish
caught.. I usually start with the heavier/deeper one first, and
when I feel I've had the majority of action that I am going to
get on that one, then I'll go back through the productive areas
with the lighter, higher-riding spinnerbait on the spinning rod,
and almost always get a few more fish on the second presentation.
Importantly, this "second round" are fish that would
not have hit the first presentation again. Fish really do wise up
to you quickly. Best odds are always on the first cast.
Subsequent casts with the same lure often only serve to further
reinforce that it should NOT be hit. So following through with a
second different lure is a great way to catch active fish that
have already rejected the first presentation.
oz Style T
oz Style T
Which Weight Head to Use When?
When a good spinnerbait bite is on, I often work with three or
four different spinnerbait weight sizes tied on different rods.
True, this does show fish different skirt colors and different
blade configurations, but what is more important to me is that
different spinnerbait sizes present alternative depths, speeds,
diverse size profiles, and varying mass displacement. Just like a
good mechanic who may use several different sizes of wrenches to
work on a vehicle, I will use several different sizes of
spinnerbaits to work a good spinnerbait bite.
- Light Spinnerbaits. I
tend use the 1/4 oz spinnerbait for super slow presentations
(such as in cold water), in super shallow bodies of water, or in
downsized environments such as small streams and farm ponds. A
1/4 oz is not a lot of weight to counterbalance blade torque, so
a 1/4 oz spinnerbait is more temperamental and prone to roll up
on its side more than heavier spinnerbaits. A 1/4 oz is usually
built with shorter wire arms and smaller blades to counteract
roll. If light line is appropriate for the fishing conditions,
then lighter line (for example, 8 lb test) can help add stability
with a 1/4 oz spinnerbait. The shorter wire arms, smaller head
shape, smaller hook (3/0 is often ideal), smaller blades plus
trimming the skirt short gives you a super compact, super
slow-moving presentation for wary bass in shallow water.
- Medium Light. I tend to
use a 3/8 oz spinnerbait to ride high, tossed tight up on the
very shoreline or over emergent shoals. This is the smallest size
I go with most days. This size I use more slowly and I tend to
keep it up high near the surface. This gives me slowness,
smallness and more of a high-floating, free-swimming buoyant
presentation. I'll tend to pick this size for shallow water, say
anything under six feet deep. Since I am using this size in
shallow water, which often has a lot of cover, there are often
panfish present. So I often use sunfish colors here, or a
watermelon/brown color. This 3/8 oz spinnerbait is a
"fixture" for me, meaning I rarely take it off. It is
always worth a few casts in any fishing spot. Because it has a
smaller, more natural presence.
- Medium Spinnerbaits. The
1/2 oz spinnerbait serves me best most of the time. It's ideal
when depth ranges from 6 to 18 feet deep. Averaged over a season,
there is no doubt I make more casts with the 1/2 oz than with all
other spinnerbait sizes. On days when I have had a good morning
bite with the 1/2 oz, but the bite starts to shut down, that is
when I tend to try the 5/8 oz, especially in a hidden head style.
The 5/8 oz will run a little deeper, a little faster, and I will
tend to fish it a little further out from shore after a shallow
morning spinnerbait bite disappears.
- Medium/Heavy Spinnerbaits.
I make fewer casts with the 3/4 oz on an average day. Even still,
it is invaluable whenever I need a slightly deeper retrieve,
faster speed or a little extra bulk. Keep in mind, a 3/4 oz has a
bigger head, bigger hook, can handle more skirt and
counterbalance more blade force than a 1/2 oz. What I mean is,
the 3/4 oz can take more or bigger blades than the 1/2 oz. Also,
when it becomes very windy, it may become necessary to go to the
3/4 oz. The 1/2 oz can be less effective at those times in terms
of being able to cast it, control the line and feel the
- Heavy Spinnerbaits. I
make much use of 1 oz spinnerbaits - even in one foot of water.
In shallow water, the 1 oz spinnerbait has a ton of presence. It
is a big fish bait. Most anglers will never try this. So if you
dare to try it, you can have all the 1 oz spinnerbait biters all
to yourself in shallow water. Trust me, it works. I've hauled in
many monster bass on 1 oz spinnerbaits in 1-2 feet of water.
I also use the one ounce as a bottom-bouncing presentation, slow
rolling it 20 to 30 feet deep. Many anglers know about deep slow
rolling, but few ever do it or they give up too quickly. It
really is a game of patience. And the exact opposite, I use 1 oz
blades as an extreme topwater presentation burning it back as
fast as possible. Again, few anglers do this. Despite its lack of
popularity, the 1 oz spinnerbait, no matter how you use it, tends
to be a big bass presentation.
- Extra Heavy Spinnerbaits.
As heavy as you can practically cast for bass is 1-1/2 ounces. It
really requires a specialized rod and can be physically strenuous
to use except for short period even for anglers in tiptop
A Word on Spinnerbait Hook Sizes
Hooks. Hook size is of paramount importance to
me. I look for a minimum of a 3/0 on a 1/4 oz spinnerbait. A 3/0
may work on a 3/8 oz if it is a short frame or compact model
spinnerbait, but mostly I like to see a 4/0 on a 3/8. Either a
4/0 or 5/0 on 1/2 oz plus a minimum 5/0 on 5/8 to 3/4 oz. On 1 oz
and 1-1/2 oz used for trophy bass, accept no less than a 6/0.
Spinnerbait Wire Arms
Much fuss is made about spinnerbait wire arm
diameter. Convention is that thinner arms allow more vibration
whereas thicker wire allows more durability in landing big fish.
The most common range of wire arm diameters for bass
spinnerbaits tends to be:
- .032 (thin wire)
- .035 (middle of the road size and most common of all)
- .040 (thick wire)
Occasionally you may see .028 (ultra-thin wire) which really
is special purpose and may bend easily or fatigue and break
At the other end, you may sometimes see .045 (extra thick
wire) if you are trophy fishing in the thickest cover with the
Super thick .051 wire is common on bass buzzbaits but .051
wire is rare on bass spinnerbaits.
Fact is that three wire diameters - .032, .035, .040 - are
what most all spinnerbait wire arms are made of. Most of all
Under most conditions, I tend to try to use moderate wire
diameter .035 much of the time. A diameter of .035 is not too
light nor too heavy; it is the best compromise of both strength
and vibration. Where big bass abound or in heavy cover, I'd
rather be using .040 to help land fish. Thin wire .032 gets bent
and fatigues more easily but I do use it if other wire sizes
aren't producing fish.
In general, .035 wire is good most of the time with say 12 to
15 pound test for mostly up to 5 pound bass plus an occasional
hawg. If you are looking for a specialty bait with a high
vibration wire arm, then properly tempered .032 spring steel wire
is about as light as I would go with 10 pound test line. For
heavier tackle and bigger bass, .040 is safer. If you will be
jamming spinnerbaits into windfalls and drowned trees all day on
heavy baitcasting gear, then I would use no less than .040 for
that kind of cover.
So it pays to have all three wire arm sizes - for every day
use (.035), for big bass or heavy cover (.040) and for conditions
when maximum vibration may matter (.032 wire).
A Word on Wire Diameter and Vibration
You will hear a lot of constant talk that thin wires like .032
vibrate more whereas thick wires like .040 are stiffer and don't
vibrate as much. As for me, I am not convinced of the
overwhelming importance of wire diameter as the key factor
responsible for spinnerbait vibration. True, thin wire does
enable more vibration, but I have never been able to detect
whether or not that matters much to fish. Methinks it matters
much more to anglers. Besides, there are several other aspects of
a spinnerbait that may cause vibration regardless of wire
In fact, try this simple test. Take the blades and everything
off the arm of any spinnerbait. Cast it. How much does the wire
arm vibrate now? The wire arm does not vibrate at all. So as I
say, the wire arm isn't the sole criteria, cause or component
that determines spinnerbait vibration. What you put on the arm
matters more, the length of the blade arm (from the line tie to
the swivel end loop), the length of the nose arm (from line tie
to spinnerbait head), the degree of angle between the nose arm
and blade arm, how the blade(s) are counterbalanced by the head,
and how two blades affect each other, the distance two blades are
spaced, the ability of the swivel and clevis to turn easily or
not - are some other factors to affect vibration in addition to
the wire diameter. Plus the wire itself may be soft or hard wire,
which affects vibration and durability both.
In fact, not all spinnerbait wire arms are equal. meaning some
are softer, bend more easily, break more easily and also vibrate
less than others.
So it's not wire diameter alone that's the sole measure of
vibration, but it's many factors that all add up to vibration in
Super Wire Arms
In addition to ordinary stainless wire arms (which may vary in
temper from soft to hard), there are two types of specialty
"Super Wire" arms.
The manufacturer who introduced Super Wire to the market
(years ago) tells me his goal was to find a more bend-resistant
wire, which he did. On a lab testing machine, Super Vibe Wire is
30% more bend-resistant than standard wire. Under actual fishing
conditions, the difference in bend-resistance between Super Wire
versus standard wire is much more dramatic. That 30% difference
in the lab equates to much more bend-resistance on the water.
Super Wire gets bent out of shape far less than ordinary wire
arms while fishing. The difference in bend-resistance while
actually fighting and landing fish seems like night and day.
Ordinary wire gets bent out of shape far more than the 30%
difference detected on lab machines.
In his quest for a more bend-resistant and durable wire, he
also creates a wire that vibrates more. Somewhat surprising to
him, none of the spinnerbait manufacturers who first used the new
super wire remarked about the bend resistance in their early
feedback to him. The spinnerbait manufacturers were all far more
excited about the increased vibration that super stainless
provides. So not only does super wire provide less bend
resistance, but almost 50% more vibration is gotten with the
Super Wire than ordinary wire arms in lab tests.
There are two types of Super Wire arms:
- Bright Super Wire Arm.
Bright silvery stainless steel color. Provides more strength,
gets bent less, and emits more vibration than ordinary arms.
Super wire is up to 30% stronger and vibrates up to 50% more than
ordinary stainless wire.
- Brown Super Wire Arm.
Seldom seen is this coffee-colored brown finish on stainless
steel wire. The wire vendor claims this brown-colored super wire
is even stronger and vibrates even more than the his
bright-finish super wire. So not only is brown super wire
reported to be the strongest, most durable and most vibration of
any available stainless wire arm, but the brown finish presents a
stealthy, natural appearance that blends into the background
Pre-Tuning the Wire Arm
One of the first things I do with a brand new spinnerbait is
bend the nose arm (from the line tie to the nose) of the
spinnerbait wire straight up to create a thirty to forty-five
degree angle where the wire exits the nose of the spinnerbait. This
is probably the most important thing you need to do to a
spinnerbait - and most guys never do it. This enables
the head, skirt and hook to ride on a more horizontal plane
through the water, for a more perfect appearance and hook-setting
position. If you do not do this, the blades will ride more on a
horizontal plane, and the hook will hang almost vertically on
most new spinnerbaits out of the package. Out on the water, take
a look first to ensure the head, skirt and hook, not the blades,
are riding horizontally. After bending the nose arm up, you may
also need to bend the blade arm (from the line tie to the swivel
end loop) up if it seems the blades are sitting too close to the
hook. Since wire weakens when bent, only bend it the fewest
number of times as necessary to achieve the overall head, skirt,
hook and blade posture that appears best on a relatively
horizontal plane moving through the water.
Wire Arm Length
Most spinnerbait arms you will see today are made long. Of
course, a long arm is often necessary to hold a double blade
configuration, especially a long, slanky double Willow rig, but
these same long arms are used for single blades too. What has
become the industry standard specification, what I mean by
"long" or "standard" is when you depress the
top blade arm down, the tip of the wire arm will end just about
where the hook point begins. That's the measure of most of what
is made in terms of wire arms today. With that "long"
or "standard" arm, it's hard to describe, but I often
like to keep enough distance between the blade and the skirt to
cause a "separation" factor between the blades and the
skirt. I do not want a big Willow blade to come too close to the
skirt. I want that length of wire arm to separate the visual
aspects of the blade versus the skirt. I never let the gap
between the blade and the skirt get overly wide (that tends to
destabilize the lure), nor do I worry too much about the bass
striking the blades instead of the skirt. A bass's eye needs to
fixate and lock onto it's target like a Cruise missile locks on.
It can't lock onto the gyrating, flashing blades so easily, but
it sure will get the substantial solid sight of the skirt dead in