Bassdozer's Custom Shakey Swimming Jigs
by Russ Bassdozer
This shows and tells product photos, product descriptions and
information for the lure models and colors that are (or have
been) available at BassdozerStore.com. Not all models and colors
shown are currently available, and exact specifications are
subject to change.
Note: Some of the following configurations may not all be
currently in stock. Some may be sold out at this time. Please
check online at www.BassdozerStore.com
for current availability of specific items below. Thank you for
Bassdozer's Shakey Swimming Jigs ~ Boon Companions to My
Wisconsin Swimming Jigs
1/8 oz (5/0) Shakey Swimming Jigs ~ Green Pumpkin ~ Qty: 5 per
3/16 oz (5/0) Shakey Swimming Jigs ~ Green Pumpkin ~ Qty: 5 per
1/8 oz (5/0) Shakey Swimming Jigs ~ Black ~ Qty: 5 per pack
I first designed and developed my Wisconsin Swimming Jig,
which is typically used with a skirt and a grub trailer. It also
works great without a skirt, just with a hula grub or single tail
My Wisconsin Swimming Jig is typically bulky, with a
weedguard, skirt and trailer.
So there I had a Wisconsin swimming jig (with skirt and grub)
which is a semi-bulky presentation. I also wanted the same kind
of swimming jig concept expressed in a finesse worm application.
What I perceived a need for, and designed next was my shakey
swimming jig in order to use it with a shakey worm - as the boon
companion to my Wisconsin swimming jig.
Both the Wisconsin Swimming Jig and Shakey Swimming Jig
incorporate the same model and size (5/0) Mustad UltraPoint hook.
The diff is, the shakey swimming jig is designed for swimming
long, slim soft baits to entice fish that pass up or don't want
the bulkier Wisconsin swimming jig.
So you may go down a bank swimming the Wisconsin jig, and
whenever you miss a fish, or whenever you want to slow down and
deadstick a worm, you basically have a companion presentation in
the shakey swimming jig.
Another way to think of it is to use the Wisconsin Swimming
Jig in cover - and to use the shakey swimming jig in open areas
where there's little of no cover.
So there you have a good example of the difference between a
shakey jig (my shakey swimming jig) versus a jig jig (my
Wisconsin swimming jig).
Many customers have had fantastic results with my Wisconsin
swimming jig, but since I am the only vendor I know who has a
shakey swimming jig companion to be used in partnership with a
skirted swimming jig, I think maybe many persons are unfamiliar
with this "one-two" approach. No one really uses a
Wisconsin swimming jig and a companion shakey swimming jig in
concert as two parts of a combined presentation. Read on,
however, and you may discover it makes a lot of sense!
As you go down a stretch of fish-holding water, use the
skirted Wisconsin swimming jig in shallow, thick cover. Anytime
you miss a strike on the Wisconsin swimming jig, toss back in on
the fish with the shakey swimming jig.
Also, any time you get away from shallow, thick cover and move
into relatively open flats or deeper structure, where fish may be
more wary or in open water, that's the domain of the shakey
Use my skirted Wisconsin swimming jigs with trailer baits in
thick, shallow cover. Follow up every missed strike on the
Wisconsin swimming jig by throwing back with the shakey swimming
jig, and use the shakey swimming jigs on open flats, in mid-water
and on deeper structure. It's that simple to catch many more fish
by using both jig styles together rather than using either one
So you may probe shallow, thick cover with the Wisconsin
swimming jig and can prospect more open flats, mid-water and
deeper structure with the shakey swimming jig - and you'll catch
more fish with this double-barreled approach than with either one
My Wisconsin swimming jig and shakey swimming jig share the
same 5/0 Mustad hook.
The shakey swimming jig comes in 1/8 and 3/16 oz sizes, both
My 1/8 and 3/16 Shakey Swimming Jig and my 1/4 and 3/8
Wisconsin Swimming Jig all share the same 5/0 Mustad Ultra Point
long shank hook. This is a medium/heavy strength hook.
The hook has an extremely low angle eye positioned to shed
weeds and debris as the jig swims through cover.
Recommended Gear: This strong wire hook matches well
with 10 to 16 lb test mono, fluoro or braided line. Many big
bass, including several over ten pounds have been caught by
customers on these jigs, so they can land big fish when fought
properly on medium to medium/heavy baitcasting or spinning gear -
but note this is not a heavy flipping hook for heavy tackle or
heavy braided line.
Whenever you tie on one of my Wisconsin swimming jigs, don't
neglect to also tie one of my shakey swimming jigs onto a second
rod. You will catch many more fish by using both in a one-two
approach versus using either one alone.
You may use either medium to medium/heavy spinning or
baitcasting with the Wisconsin swimming jig, and the same gear
will work as well with the shakey swimming jig too. A good medium
to medium/heavy spinning rod goes best with the shakey swimming
jig - but, based on the identical hook, they really are
comparable in terms of the rod, reel, line for either.
I am sure that if you already like my skirted Wisconsin
swimming jigs, then you'll love using my shakey swimming jigs
together with them. Best of all, you'll catch many more fish by
using the two jigs at once (on different rods) rather than using
the Wisconsin swimming jig solo. Even if you have only one rod
however, you will still catch more fish by first going through an
area with the Wisconsin swimming jig, and consider that as the
"power" half of your presentation. Then, tie on the
shakey swimming jig, circle back and refish the same area more
slowly with a more finesse approach. Revisit anywhere you had
seen a fish, caught a fish or missed a strike. In this way, you
will catch more fish on the second pass with the shakey swimming
jig - and basically they are the same lure concept, same hook,
same rod, reel, line for both, except a more subtle finesse
presentation (shakey) versus a bulkier power presentation
5/0 with Yamamoto 5" Pro Senko (9P series) and
5-3/4" Kut Tail (7C series)
5/0 with Yamamoto 4" Senko (9S series) and 4" Swim
Adjust the way you rig a bait, to make the hook more or less
weedless and snagless depending on the thickness of the cover.
- Exposed. For open water or light cover
- Tex-exposed. For moderate cover.
- Texas rigged. For heavy cover.
Don't screw the bait down too tightly too close to the jig
head. There are more than enough turns on the screw wire so that
just a few turns will attach a soft bait more securely than most
any other means of attachment including glue. So don't screw the
bait on too tightly. In fact, try to "suspend" the bait
relatively set back from the jig head on the wire coil.
Shakey Swimming Jigs ~ A Different Concept
Shakey jigs were virtually unheard of across much of the USA
until top pro anglers started to use them approximately five
seasons ago. Since then, due to top pros demonstrated success
with shakey jigs, it is an incredibly popular tactic across the
Shakey jigs are associated with long, slender finesse worms
and with 6, 8 or 10 pound test finesse spinning gear (or 10-15 lb
It's hard to find a top pro today who isn't using such
spinning gear as one of his winning methods today. Consider
however, that such spinning gear was relatively unused by top
pros until a few seasons ago. You rarely if ever saw light
spinning rods used by pros - but they use them now, mainly due to
shakey jig success.
Starting Out at the Bottom
Shakey jigs are not originally geared toward shallow water or
the bank. One original way to use a shakey jig is to let it hit
bottom in moderately deep water, say in the 10 to 30 foot range.
Many anglers believe the shakey jig design will stand a finesse
worm upright on its nose (which actually isn't the case much of
the time). As the name implies, many anglers then shake the line
to make the worm quiver and shake on the bottom. Keep in mind
however, it's often the initial fall and touchdown - or it is a
lackluster pause in the shaking process, when most bites occur.
On left and right: Two shakey jigs for bottom contact. In
center: Two shakey swimming jigs.
The Shakey Swimming Jig's Special Purpose
The shakey swimming jig works great with a bottom contact
approach - but that isn't its special purpose. What the shakey
swimming jig is designed to do, as the name implies, is swimming
and shaking it, keeping it moving above bottom. Swimming and
shaking - not bottom-hugging - is really what this shakey
swimming jig is all about. It's a new concept. It's
not a bottom contact shakey jig like all the others out there.
Like most other shakey jigs, the shakey swimming jig works
ideally with long, slender finesse worms and with 6, 8 or 10
pound test finesse spinning gear. Yes, you can fish bottom with
it - but you can swim it at any water level too.
Swimming soft baits is what the shakey swimming jig is all
The shakey swimming jig is optimized for swimming soft baits
like Gary Yamamoto's Swimming Senko, long worms with straight or
action tails, or any other brand or model of soft plastic able to
be used with a swimming technique. It will work swell with
straight-tail worms, small craw worms or any other soft baits
that can be rigged on it. It is not designed to bounce bottom,
although it can do that perfectly. It's true purpose is to swim
soft baits anywhere from just below the surface to just above the
bottom, and all mid-level depths in between:
- Sub-Surface. Use near the
surface, and just keep it coming at you in open water. It can be
swam through weeds emerging close to the surface - or swam
through the tops of deeper weed beds growing closer to the
- Mid-Strolling. Means to
swim through suspended bass at any mid depth in the water column
(called "mid-strolling" in Japan). This is a term
coined and tactic practiced in Japan whereby an angler will cast
out and will softly shake the rod tip ever-so-gently little by
little and have the lure swim back to the angler anywhere from 3
to 15 feet deep in the middle range of the water column - slowly.
The retrieve speed can be from zero (just letting the lure
pendulum fall back toward you with no reeling) to whatever
reeling pace is needed to maintain your target depth level. That
is, you should reel slower to maintain a 15 foot depth level,
often requiring momentary pauses in the retrieve. Brief pauses in
the reeling not only help the jig counter its ever-present
tendency to ride up higher in the water, but the brief pauses are
also high percentage strike moments. During the pause, the jig
will reverse its tendency to rise and it will instead turn to
settle lower. When reeling is resumed, the jig will again want to
ride up again. The overall up-down-up effect of a brief pause is
a natural strike trigger.
So you will need to reel slower (often requiring pauses) with rod
tip low to maintain a deeper strolling level. You will need to
reel a little quicker (with the rod tip up) to maintain a higher
(say a five foot) strolling level through the water column.
What anglers in Japan do during the retrieve, they shake it maybe
75% of the time. The other 25% will be equally-spaced, short
intervals of no rod action during which the jig falls or glides
slowly. Think of three slow turns of the reel (75%) while lightly
shaking, then one slower, steady turn (25%) with noshaking.
The mid-strolling technique excels under tough conditions, or
whenever bass are suspended at mid-levels in the water column.
- Swimming Deep and Slow. There
are many times when bottom-hugging bass will not rise much above
the bottom, and then, the painstakingly slow method of swimming
shakey jigs slowly barely above bottom often gets them when
mid-strolling or sub-surface presentations fail. Swimming soft
baits deep and slow close to the bottom can be done with the same
tactics as mid-strolling, except touching bottom occasionally to
make sure you are still near bottom, still in the strike zone.
One common theory with jigs is to incorporate the jig head as
a part of the bait presentation. An example is a jig head shaped
like a fish face with eyes, realistically etch gills, etched
fins, etc. With the swimming shakey jig here, it is not part of
the bait presentation. Don't try to incorporate it as the head of
the worm or bait. It is only a shot of ballast strategically
suspended on the hook wire in order to aid casting distance,
accuracy and most importantly, to govern proper swimming balance
of a soft swimming bait. With some colors, such as the
red-painted jigs, they also add a small spot of color flash, but
it would be wrong to think of the jig head as imitating a worm's
or bait's head. It's just a strategic blob of balance weight put
there to help make soft swimming baits swim at their very best.
You'll see this in action when you start swimming a few baits
with this jig.
This jig is so nicely balanced that even an ordinary Senko
(can one call the Senko ordinary?) on the shakey swimming jig
will swagger and sway, squirm and squiggle like a live earthworm
that's fallen into the water. Just keep a semi-tight line fall,
and the Senko will vibrate both its tips, undulate its body in an
oscillating S movement as it falls on a semi-tight line. A Senko
makes somewhat the same famous shimmy and shake on the swimming
shakey jig as when a Senko is fished weightless. It take's a
little study and practice to perfect this shimmying fall with the
swimming shakey jig, but it is worthwhile to master it.
With the jig of course, it's a faster fall and gets deeper
than a weightless Senko, yet has the very same tip movement and
body vibration. The jig head lets you fish a Senko faster and
deeper than possible weightless, without any loss of squirm or
squiggle as it falls on a semi-tight line. Once it reaches
bottom, wait a spell and then start a series of slow lifts
followed by pauses. The lifts will raise the Senko above bottom,
attracting attention. On the pauses (with a semi-tight line) the
Senko will wriggle and squirm like alive as it glides forward and
toward the bottom again. Repeat the lifts and pauses is all you
need to do. It's too simple and devastating in its effectiveness.
There's no better way I know to fish a weighted Texas-rigged