Let's Tie on a Buzz!
Background. The Lunker Lure web site proudly proclaims that
they introduced the original buzzbait to the national market in
1976. Today however, most anglers do not always use them as often
as they could, even though buzzbaits have consistently been great
bass producers for the past twenty-two years!
Basic Anatomy. A
buzzbait is a specialized topwater form of a bass jig. In
anglers' game plans, it competes for play time against
spinnerbaits (a midwater form of a bass jig), and against other
topwaters such as poppers, spitters, prop baits, hard stickbaits,
soft stickbaits, etc. Its strength is that it's more snagless and
you can cover more water faster with a buzzbait than with most
other topwaters.
Hawg Hustler's Buzzbait
exhibits outstanding quality in a standard lure. It
has a pointed weed-shedding head. A long wire arm and long-shanked
hook to handle short strikers. A quality silicone
skirt, Delta blade & rivet. Low cost.
|
A buzzbait is not a complex lure. There are only
a few components. Here are the basics of what to look for:
- A pointy, often slightly flattened leadhead on .045 to .051
wire arm with a 3/0 or 4/0 stainless O'Shaughnessy or round bend
hook. Look for the pointy leadhead nose - it is far more weedless
and snagless than other head shapes
- A silicone skirt with forward and backward facing fronds held
onto the jig collar by a piece of rubber tubing
- A 2-winged aluminum prop blade on top
- Make sure it has an aluminum rivet for the infamous squealing
noise
|
Name Some Names. Most anglers
enjoy buying and using the high quality products available from
lure manufacturers. Here is a list of a few buzz makers with web
sites on the Internet. Many have interesting or innovative
features to their lures. This can make for an interesting little
web surfing session one day:
Weights and Sizes. I
use 1/4 ounce with a medium-sized blade on 14 to 17 lb. test
spinning gear all of the time. I will throw 3/8 ounce when the
wind makes it tough to manage. Rather than use heavier buzzers, I
switch to big spinnerbaits if I need to cast farther or cover
more water faster.Years ago I threw lots of 1/8 ounce buzzers and
caught loads. You can retrieve the 1/8 slower which people claim
to be more appealing to fish. Over time though, I usually
observed that guys fishing with me who were chunking heavier
buzzers usually did just fine for themselves.
It's the Prop, Baby!
The main attraction of a buzzbait is that the metal parts squeak
when they rub, the blade creates a rhythmic throb. It leaves a
bubbly trail and an ever-widening vee wake which makes for easy
tracking by bass, even at night. The entire commotion partially
obscures the lure skirt from sight, preventing the bass from
eyeballing it too closely. With all these things going on up top,
the lure skirt itself is less important, and a trailer bait is
usually not necessary to attract fish. However, you may use a
trailer to adjust the "buoyancy" and/or slow down the
speed of the bait.
A Few Colors. Get
comfortable with a white buzz as your mainstay. Here are a few
other colors that work:
1 |
White glimmer
(gold or blue) |
Use anytime.
Sunlight gives a living, vibrant sheen to the glimmer colors |
2 |
Black Back/ Red
belly |
Use anytime, but
particularly at night |
3 |
Fire Tiger |
Increases
visibility in thick cover, when windy, or for active fish in
spring and fall |
4 |
Clear
Crystal/Copper Flake |
Use in clear water
on sunny days |
Not a lot of thought or
even much skill needs to go into basic buzzbait fishing. It is
not like a jig n' pig where a lot of people claim they can never
catch fish on it and the best advice experts give you is to leave
all your other lures home..."fish solely with a jig n'pig
and go fishless for the next 2-3 years"...until you learn
it. Not so with mastering the buzz - just go out on the water and
toss it every so often. If bass are in the mood for it, you will
generate strikes muy pronto. It's that simple. If you aren't
getting any action, take it off and try it again later that day
or on your next trip.
So here goes. Of
course, I've seen many novices who didn't know how to retrieve it
correctly, and they would never stand a chance at catching a
fish. So here goes.
You must concentrate on your hand-eye coordination. You need
to follow the buzzbait flight trajectory by eye during the day or
anticipate it as best you can at night. Think baseball - don't
cast like the late, great Willie Mays hitting a pop homer over
the fences at Candlestick - instead, make a powerful line drive
to short center. You need to close your bail and begin turning
the reel handle when the buzz is decelerating and arcing through
the last few feet of air before it hits the water. Read that last
sentence back to me. Done, properly, your lure should not
whiplash back or anything, What should happen is the buzz
splashes down, and if you engaged the reel right, the buzz will
be gurgling instantly and moving rapidly because the temporary
extra tension built up in your line is pulling it towards you a
tad. Read it again and no, I did not call you a tad. When that
tension is expended, the buzz will relax an instant. EXPECT TO
GET BLASTED RIGHT NOW. If there was a fish within 10 feet of this
happening, it has come over to check it out. Even better if there
were two or more fish in the critical splashdown zone, they are
right now racing each other to see who gets to your buzz first.
Now, you were turning the reel handle all this time, right? Of
course. Just don't stop turning, but you might want to slow down
a bit so the buzz gets to a pace you like. At any given time,
fish may like it as slow as you can possibly go to barely keep
gurgling or they may want it as fast as you can burn it back.
Steer It. If you did not get a hit
at splashdown, then you really need to maneuver your rod tip to
one side or the other as you reel in. You need to steer the buzz
at any cover in its path, floating weeds, rocks, wood. Why?
Because you will only get hit again when your lure passes close
by these objects. I am not sure why this is so, although I have
my opinions. The point is, if I want to get hit, I have to steer
my lure to pass within inches of this stuff. Not so sure I always
want the lure to "bump" into it, which other people may
advise you to do. I can get stuck or glopped up with weeds if I
bump it. As a matter of fact, if it looks like the buzz is going
to plow right into a log or weeds, then I will start lowering my
rod tip and wind the line so it is nice and tight. When the buzz
is 6-12 inches away from crashing into the object, then I will
reel quickly and control-swing the rod tip up so that the buzz
jumps up and over the obstruction without fouling.
Rod High. As for a rod
choice, I prefer spinning so I can wind in buzzbaits steadily
with the rod tip pointed way up in the air. I think it gives more
life-like action if you always keep your rod tip as high as you
can to keep the buzz on top. As a rule, this means 10 o'clock
when you have just casted and have lots of line out, and tip up
at 11 o'clock by the time you have retrieved most of your line.
When it gets within twenty feet of you, you will lose that nice
feeling of traction on the surface. There's nothing you can do
about this. Just finish out the retrieve as best you can.
You can't easily fish baitcasting rods with the tip held high
due to the way you grip the handle, and you won't be able to set
the hook easily from that position either. Baitcasters excel with
jigs, worms and other deep-running lures where you keep the rod
tip pretty much pointed at 9 o'clock or even pointed dead
straight down the line angle. A tight, thin line like a braid or
one of the new superlines is a beautiful thing for lures you fish
by "feel" such as jigs, Texas or Carolina rigged worms,
and slow-rolling spinnerbaits in deep water. But I think a tight
line deadens a buzzbait's action. It is hard to describe, but I
like a fat, billowy monofilament line with a buzzbait. The line
kind of floats and wallows around in the air with buzzers. I
think it lets the buzzbait exhibit more life-like action.
You have to try these maneuvers. Click
on your browser's Print icon and take this down to the water with
you. Don't try to catch fish, but try to learn to do what is in
this advice.
Hooksetting. The bass
will not let go of the buzzbait for a few seconds or longer - let
them take the buzzbait down - do not set the hook when they blow
up on the bait - only set after they take it down and you feel
solid weight.
Short Strikes. There is
a common feeling that bass short strike at buzzbaits. Actually, I
don't think they miss it as much as the fact that we react too
soon and pull it away before they have a chance to engulf it
completely. To circumvent shortstriking, I do not use trailers,
rather I layer-trim the silicone skirt to end just a little
beyond the hook bend. I use the Z-Man silicone skirts, previously
made by RM Industries. I trim both the front and rear-facing
fronds to create an overall willow leaf-shaped "layered
look" that presents the illusion of a baitfish body. This
way, there is not too much stuff trailing out past the hook for
the fish to nip at. I do not like trailer hooks because I often
fish the buzzbaits near heavy wood and weed cover, and I feel a
trailer hook fouls up more than it helps. Buzzing in weeds can be
dealt with, but doing it in wood, like drowned tree tops and
logjams, leaves you exhausted by the end of the day because it
requires so much concentration and hand/eye coordination to do it
successfully. In fact, if I find myself buzzing deep into wood, I
need to ask myself, "Why are you doing this - wouldn't you
be better off using a jig n' pig?" And I always remind
myself that I would then have to fish nothing but the jig n' pig
and go fishless for the next 2-3 years until I master it. What I
do then is compromise. I take one buzzbait with a stout wire arm
and take one jig n' pig with a stout fiberguard. Then I clip off
the nose of the buzzbait, form a small loop in the end of the
wire arm and attach the fiberguard jig to the buzzbait. Add a
trailer to this, usually a twintail grub, and spray it down with
scent. You can pitch this, buzz it straight at logs, let it bang
into or along the length of them, and then fish it like a
dropbait. It is much more snagless and versatile than an
unmodified buzzbait. Just kill it, let it struggle down to the
bottom - jig it around and/or just let it lay there.
When Not to Use It. I
find that there are moments, days, weeks, months, and even whole
bodies of water when/where the buzzbait just doesn't do it for
me. If fish are going to hit the buzz, they'll let you know about
it muy pronto. If I give the buzz a chance (and I always do) and
the fish don't want it, then I don't use it. It seems pretty
clear to me when they don't want it, you can't raise them (at the
moment, this day, this week, on this pond, etc.). There's also an
in between thing, when they hit, but you can tell their hearts
are just not in it. Don't waste your time. The right thing to do
here is to go to other lures.
Better Bites on Spinnerbaits? There
have been times when I think I am doing good with a buzzbait, and
somehow I wonder if I might be able to do better with a
spinnerbait or other lure. Sometimes this is true.
Here's how you can find out: Identify
a starting place - let's call it "point A" - for a long
area that you want to cover, and start buzzing away. Such an
exciting lure for the angler to use! There is speculation that it
excites the fish too, and can heighten the awareness of
less-than-active fish. However, after five casts or so over the
same spot, I am always afraid I run the risk of turning the fish
negative. Actually, your first cast really matters most. After
that, you are fishing used water. So, buzz along a stretch of 100
yards or so. Hopefully, you'll get some bass. Whether you do or
not, don't wear out your welcome. Don't cast again if fish
violently blow up and miss the bait, or if they make half-hearted
attempts at it, or follow it but don't hit. You REALLY risk
turning them off, especially the big ones. Just wait until you
get to the end of the run, then tie on a spinnerbait and circle
back to point A where you started from and refish the same areas
with a spinnerbait. Hopefully, you'll pick more fish - maybe even
more than hit the buzz. After that, if you are in heavy grass,
wood, rocks, return to point A and make a third pass with a
fiberguard jig and twintail spider grub or jig n'pig. Pay no mind
to the open areas you already covered. Get into the nastiest
stuff that you couldn't hit with the pinbaits. Go right for the
densest weed clumps and shake those weeds up. Cast right at the
biggest tree limbs and let the jig BANG full speed, then drop
into the water. Knock it around down there. Screw down your drag
and throw it 4-5 feet deep into the points and cuts along reed
stands. Rustle those canes. Winch a few out of there and you'll
get to feeling like you're king again!
Take a Smoke Break. I
am always interested to hear if anyone has any good ways to get
bass to hit again after they miss a buzzbait. What I like to do
is wait 2-3 minutes before casting again to the exact same spot.
Especially with big bass, I have found that I risk turning them
off completely if I recast to the same spot immediately. I will
always remember one dark night when my friend Tony had the
biggest commotion completely miss his buzzbait. He was all ready
to fire it back out when I advised him, "No, you've got to
wait." Well, he lit a cigarette and when he finished smoking
it, he put it right back there and caught a nine pound New York
bass!
Scent. I do not believe
that scent is a major factor to the initial attraction of a
buzzbait. However, scent may add some value when a fish near
misses the bait on the first cast - the taste of scent may
encourage the bass to take another swipe when you cast back to
the same spot.
Around riprap, always
make the lure make contact with the rocks. Sometimes with the
buzzbait, I will bring it towards a nice collection of rocks,
kill the retrieve and let it helicopter down into thick chunk
rock. Then I will just jig it like a jig and let it clank all
around down there while I stumble it forward. This is also a good
tactic to use in any area, not just riprap, AT NIGHT when bass
blow up and miss the buzz. Kill it, let it sink and bumble it
around on the bottom…and feel for that mushy kind of jig
pick-up.
Deadsticking. Occasionally
when I have gotten a wind knot in my line, I have even seen bass
pick up the buzzbait after it was resting idle on the bottom for
30 seconds or more. They streak off to the side with it in their
mouths - just like they would pick up a rubber worm and streak
off with it.
Windy or Calm?
Buzzbaits will work in the windiest or calmest conditions and
everywhere in between. Early morning and late evening calm waters
are "classic" buzzbait conditions. The only thing I
will add is that under strong windy conditions over 15 knots,
when I think I am doing good in the wind with buzzbaits, I always
try spinnerbaits fished a couple of feet under the surface and
often find that I can do even better with them.
Tackle Tinkering. I have good fishing pals who are always experimenting
with their equipment and their techniques. My friend Eto is a
tireless tinkerer. He takes the aluminum blades and drill 2-3
holes in each wing. He also likes to bend the wire arm until the
blade ticks and stutters against it on the retrieve. He sometimes
uses erratic retrieves, moving the lure fast, then slow, then
fast again. Sometimes dramatically, sometimes only a subtle kind
of twitching that causes the buzz to spit. And then there's my
friend Vinnie from San Diego who drives long distances to buy
Yamamoto buzzbaits because they are made with oversized
wire holes in the blades to create more squeak. And then there
are clackers, different colored blades, etc. And people always
say to bend the wire arm to make the buzz run underneath docks or
into rock walls. And everyone knows the one about hanging your
buzzer out the car window as you speed down to the lake. Years
ago, I got sucked into this hoopla too. I was making my own
in-line buzzbaits. The in-line is somewhat more weedless when
fished through thick grass mats. Yes, any of these variations may
make a difference at times, but...
No thanks. I don't use
or do any of the things mentioned in the above paragraph. I just
fling it out there and bring it in nice and steady, sometimes
slow, sometimes fast - the fish will let me know the speed they
want. Well, okay there is this one thing I do...you see I take a
ballpoint pen and roll the bent wings of the buzz blade around it
to make them into a really tight, curly shape. You can reel this
in as fast as a a jetski and the curled wings spit a stream of
water that looks like 100 sanded-lip Pop'Rs going off at once.
Phil Chan, the smallmouth maven of Toronto, showed me that trick.
My how they slam it!
That uneasy feeling. Sometimes I get an uneasy feeling that particular
individual buzzbaits are not really doing their job too good in
the catching department. Now these individuals may look, act and
squeak like identical others. I notice this phenomena with
buzzbaits (and crankbaits) more than with other lure types. Just
be on watch for this. Maybe you can give these to your friends!
They can drill holes in them, add clackers, hold them out their
car windows and what not.
Now that that's all said and done...let's go
tie on a buzz! |